This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
‘Remember, remember, the fifth of November’, goes the old nursery rhyme, ‘gunpowder, treason and plot.’ It’s a memorably succinct summary of the events of that very night in 1605, when Catholic rebel Guy Fawkes tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament and assassinate England’s Protestant king, James I. The monarch’s survival has been marked ever since and celebrations have evolved over the centuries. Traditionally, Guy’s effigy was burned on bonfires across the land, but now fireworks are the most common means of commemorating his failed — yet infamous — explosives attempt. Whichever event you choose, snack on beloved seasonal accompaniments — such as baked potatoes or toffee apples — as the dark skies over Britain become a blaze of colour.
The tradition of carrying burning, tar-coated barrels through the streets of Ottery St Mary in Devon is a centuries-old tradition.
Photograph by Steve Davey Photography; Alamy
By far the UK’s biggest celebration of its kind, this raucous, torch-lit parade is something of an audiovisual cacophony — with brass bands, bagpipes and firecrackers providing the soundtrack to a procession of giant, caricature effigies. Made by six local bonfire societies, these 3D creations are then burned at separate sites –– which also host magnificent fireworks displays. As train services into Lewes stop at 3pm on the day of the event and roads also close in an effort to control crowds, an evening-only visit isn’t possible. Instead, book accommodation in the town well in advance, and spend preceding days exploring glorious nearby beaches like Cuckmere Haven.
When: 5 November; a ticket for one of the fire sites generally costs £10
This ordinarily peaceful riverside town undergoes a complete personality change on Bonfire Night, when huge crowds gather to watch locals run through the streets while carrying burning, tar-coated barrels aloft on their shoulders. Although the centuries-old tradition is thought to have its roots in the Gunpowder Plot, the overall effect is decidedly pagan — the atmosphere is febrile as ‘barrel rollers’ pass the flaming cargo between them and, despite covering their hands with hessian sacks, injuries are not uncommon. The evening kicks off at 4pm with the children’s and women’s events, while from 7pm men can be seen carrying loads of up to 30kg. Every vessel ends up on a giant bonfire, while the lighting of the ‘midnight barrel’ signals the spectacle’s finale.
When: 5 November; public event
This racing circuit less than an hour’s drive north of the Scottish capital brings together the comparatively unusual bedfellows of fireworks and motorsports. The day begins at 2pm with four hours of on-track action — including stock car demos, a monster truck parade and a performance by motorcycle stunt rider Jonny Davies — before a grand finale display by pyrotechnics company 21CC Fireworks. Spend the following day castle-hopping in the area — Doune, Midhope and Blackness are all well worth visiting — or head into Edinburgh for the city’s annual Diwali celebrations. This free, cross-cultural parade marks the Indian Festival of Lights and features bagpipers, folk dancers and yet more fireworks.
When: 1 November; adults £20, teens £10, children under 12 free
The 18th-century castle was once home to Prime Minister William Gladstone and today Hawarden’s grounds are an especially atmospheric setting for bonfire night celebrations.
Photograph by Hawarden Estate (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Hawarden Estate (Bottom) (Right)
Pets usually spend early November nights hiding under the sofa, but this firework-free celebration in North Wales is ideal for those who’d like to bring their dog along for the fun. An 18th-century castle once home to Prime Minister William Gladstone — and still owned by his descendants — Hawarden’s grounds are an especially atmospheric setting after dark. With colourful outfits encouraged and guests given free glow sticks and neon face paint, the silent disco is sure to be a visual spectacle as well as an auditory one. Cooks working over outdoor kitchen fires will be firing out barbecue classics, while the estate’s legendary bakery will lay on the doughnuts and s’mores.
When: 1 November; adults £12.50, children £8
A grand, glass-and-iron structure loftily perched in the well-to-do north London suburb of Muswell Hill, the ‘people’s palace’ makes a magnificent backdrop for one of the capital’s biggest displays. On a clear night the fireworks and drone display can be seen for miles around, but those with a ticket to the event benefit from access to food stalls, a funfair and Ally Pally’s ice rink and Great Hall — transformed into a German-style bierkeller pub and soundtracked by both oompah bands and Dolly Parton and Taylor Swift tribute acts.
When: 31 October & 1 November; adults £19, children from £6.50
Alexandra Palace Fireworks is one of the country’s biggest bonfire night events.
Photograph by Anad Savpo; Alamy
Where better to celebrate than the city that gave us the original firestarter? Guy Fawkes Inn just off Stonegate, the prettily paved central street where he was born, offers 13 atmospheric rooms — some with four-poster beds — and upscale pub grub. After a ‘bonfire’ beef burger or some ‘gunpowder’ chicken, head over to Rawcliffe Country Park, a patch of urban greenery that hosts an annual bonfire, firework display and funfair — with all proceeds going to the Fire Fighters Charity.
When: 8 November; adults £12.50, children £7.50
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