Wat Arun from Eat Sight Story Deck. Pic Carmen Jenner
You may have heard the song, One Night in Bangkok. It topped the charts in 1985 and describes the Thai capital as a chess match, because let’s face it, Bangkok does require a certain amount of strategy and street smarts. The song refers to Soi Cowboy (the red-light district) and reclining Buddha (Wat Pho) in jest. But one night in Bangkok is never enough; neither is one year, nor a lifetime, some will say. Three nights in Bangkok is merely an appetiser, and whether you order the main course is up to you.
Bangkok is a city of extremes, often enchanting and confronting in equal measure. The city’s contrasts and everything in between somehow function harmoniously alongside each other, forming part of Thailand’s undeniable charm. During my visit, I experienced both extremes, staying at the NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard Hotel, a short stroll from the heart of Soi Cowboy, and at the Glow Bangkok Riverside hotel, set in a peaceful enclave that felt blissfully far away.
Sandwiched between Soi Cowboy and Soi Arab (the Middle Eastern precinct), the location of the NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard Hotel is framed by many of the city’s vices. The recently refurbished 300-room hotel is part of the Minor Hotels group that includes the Anantara and Avani brands. The impressive breakfast buffet served a mix of western and unexpected eastern flavours, while the rooftop pool and bar was a tranquil retreat from the fray below.
I couldn’t fault the convenience of the location. After navigating my way through the raw humanity exuding from the massage parlours, cannabis cafés (legalised in 2022), kebabs shops and bars, I was only steps away from the wholesome-sounding Nana BTS skytrain station, whisking me away to the city’s epic shopping malls and iconic attractions such as the Grand Palace complex and the massive Chatuchak Weekend Market.
From the NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard hotel, some of Bangkok’s most respected tailors are only steps away. The very first thing we did after arriving was to head to the New Armani Tailor Studio, located on the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road, one of the main thoroughfares that snakes its way through the city. My husband’s charcoal-coloured suit was ready before leaving three days later, and this alone speaks volumes about Thai industriousness.
While the skytrain is convenient, a tuk-tuk was an immersive way to connect with the city, especially by night when Bangkok is at its most vibrant. I’m engulfed in the smoky aromas from the street-side food vendors and sticky humidity, offering voyeuristic glimpses into the other vehicles as several wheelchair-bound people weave through the stagnant traffic. Perhaps making their escape from the nearby hospital?
Our tuk-tuk soon turned onto Banthat Thong Road, declared one of Bangkok’s best street food precincts. Of course, you could play it safe with pad thai, Hainan chicken rice and laksa, but adventurous eaters may feel compelled to delve into frog porridge, durian ice cream, balut (duck embryo) and mystery meat skewers barbecued over an open flame on the street.
I was curious to explore beyond the obvious. I discovered that Beer Pradith Craft Brewery has over 20 beers on tap, and that the hidden Kodo Cocktail Bar is poised to witness the food frenzy below, accompanied by a Fugu fish fin-infused gin cocktail.
If Bangkok is Asia’s answer to the city that never sleeps, then the neon lights of Chinatown are reminiscent of Times Square. One way to explore this precinct notorious for all kinds of Thai food as spicy as the night is to join a tuk-tuk tour with Bangkok Food Tours. On this tour, we returned to Banthat Thong Road and were given the lowdown on where to eat in Chinatown, including at Guay Tiew Kua Gai, which has repeatedly made the Michelin Guide for its namesake of tasty noodles wok-fried down a side alley.
After a fragrant trip to the flower market, the tour ended at the Eat Sight Story Deck rooftop bar. The sweeping views over the porcelain-tiled Wat Arun reflected in the Chao Phraya River are worth the climb any night.
A few kilometres further up the river in the historic Dusit district, the Glow Bangkok Riverside served plenty of riverside cocktails from Currents Café and Bar, in the knowledge that we were within stumbling distance of our plush bed. We didn’t even need to leave our suite, one of 40 river suites, as the epic views from the floor-to-ceiling windows revealed life playing out on the river below in this tranquil pocket of Bangkok. The Glow Bangkok Riverside opened in November 2024, and as tempting as it was to lap up the luxury, we weren’t far from Bangkok’s famous temples and the cool neighbourhood of Talat Noi, adorned with street art and cafés, such as Mother Roastery, where there were almost as many cats as coffee selections.
Talat Noi is one of the city’s few daytime enclaves, as Bangkok’s steamy temperatures mean things really come to life after the sun sets. Given the daily seven-hour flights from Perth with Jetstar, my respectable 2.50pm flight had me in the thick of it that night. My pre-booked seat at the front of the plane with Starter Plus fare included seat allocations and checked luggage of up to 20 kilograms. The fare also included a hearty meal washed down with a gin and tonic made with 23rd Street Gin.
Cheers to getting the holiday started from the moment I was airborne.
Carmen Jenner was a guest of Jetstar, Glow Bangkok Riverside and NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard.
