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In the past, it was enough for us to know that Santa Claus lived in Rovaniemi, read our letters and was doing well. Today, people want to go and see it with their own eyes. Tourism, however, leaves an indelible mark on the Far North, turning Finland’s pristine land into a commercial amusement park. Lapland is losing its unique character.
Sad changes on the map
In 2024, Lapland was visited by 700,000 tourists – 160 percent more than three decades ago. To meet the needs of this growing number of visitors, extensive accommodation and entertainment infrastructure is being developed, altering the local landscape. Holiday homes, ski lifts and virtual northern lights viewing centers are springing up one next to another.
The scale of these worrying changes was revealed in the Green to Grey report, published in early October by the Arena for Journalism in Europe in cooperation with the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation (NRK). The analysis shows that every year around 1,500 km2 across Europe become built-up areas, of which as many as 900 km2 are green spaces. Scientists warn that century-old oak forests, fertile farmland and bird sanctuaries are disappearing from the continent’s map. Paradoxically, the driving force behind this spatial transformation is often the desire to travel to nature untouched by human presence.
Holidays with Santa, at any cost
In Rovaniemi itself, the official home of Santa Claus, November and December are a period of increased tourist arrivals – local statistics show that as many as 65 percent of them are foreigners. Having travelled from afar, often by plane, they do not limit themselves to visiting Santa’s house but expect a wide range of attractions. The city, home to 66,000 residents, is transforming to satisfy visitors’ whims.
In places where there used to be parks and forests, there are now accommodation facilities, a swimming complex, a reindeer display enclosure and a husky farm offering snow safaris. Santa’s village itself has also expanded. Today’s offer includes snowmobile rides, relaxation in saunas and classes at the Elf School. Three local ski resorts have also been enlarged for visitors and now cover more than 430 km2.
photo: erix2005/Depositphotos
Lapland under pressure
One of the most pristine and breathtaking corners of Lapland is Lake Inari, dotted with 3,000 small islands. Traditional reindeer herders still live around its shores. Although it is often frozen from November to June, Inari is home to salmon, trout, char and pike. Last year local authorities designated 227 plots along the lakeshore for holiday cabins, calling the future of the entire region into question.
This is yet another example of the threats faced by Lapland. Its location beyond the Arctic Circle protected this icy region from civilization for centuries. Today, such wild and harsh places have become a magnet for city dwellers – unfortunately, most of them expect comfortable infrastructure and typical tourist attractions.
And Lapland is still a kingdom of wildlife. Herds of reindeer wander tirelessly across the tundra, with arctic foxes slipping quietly between them. Brown bears and predatory wolverines, perfectly adapted to harsh conditions, inhabit the vast forests. In summer, the skies are home to golden eagles, willow ptarmigans and Siberian jays, while swans, loons and ducks gather on the lake surfaces.
Environmentalists warn that the expansion of tourism in the Arctic is particularly dangerous. Local ecosystems are extremely sensitive, as climate warming is progressing beyond the Arctic Circle up to four times faster than in other parts of the world. Crowds of tourists are the last thing Lapland needs.
