One of Sydney’s elite three-hat restaurants, Oncore by Clare Smyth, is set to serve its final meal at Crown Sydney in February. This closure has been confirmed by both Crown and the celebrated British chef, known for her unique culinary contributions and prestigious accolades.
Clare Smyth expressed, “Opening Oncore in Sydney has been an incredible journey,” emphasizing her pride in what the team accomplished and her gratitude for the dedication that brought their food to Australian diners. Smyth’s significant achievements include being the only female chef to concurrently hold three Good Food hats and three Michelin stars.
The imminent closure follows the expiration of Smyth’s current agreement with Crown, coinciding with her preparations to open a luxury bistro, Cornucopia, in London. This shift heightens concerns regarding the market for premium dining in Sydney, which has faced challenging trading conditions over the past 18 months.
While Crown Sydney has refrained from commenting on Oncore’s potential successor, sources indicate that Sweden’s renowned three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Frantzen is a leading candidate for the space. The tasting menu at Frantzen is priced at approximately $880 per person, significantly higher than Oncore’s offering of $395, and Core, Smyth’s first solo restaurant in London, at $515.
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Launched amid the challenges of the global pandemic in 2021, Oncore made a remarkable debut, gaining three chefs’ hats right from the start, despite facing lockdowns and a remote working environment. It successfully maintained its standing since then, becoming a key attraction within Crown’s dining options, which also include established names like Nobu and Woodcut.
Crown Sydney CEO Stanford Le acknowledged the significant impact that Oncore and Smyth have had on their dining experience, citing it as a benchmark for excellence. Smyth, who began her remarkable culinary journey as head chef at London’s Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, gained widespread recognition for her innovative dishes and award-winning establishments.
One standout creation from Oncore was the potato and roe dish, a slow-cooked potato in kombu butter topped with herring and trout roe, which received rave reviews from critics. Despite the challenges faced by high-profile UK chefs in the Australian dining market, Oncore managed to make a lasting impression.
In a landscape where several prominent chefs have faced difficulties, the news of Oncore’s closure raises questions about the future of fine dining in Sydney. As the hands of culinary craftsmen continue to shape and redefine this market, the appetite for high-end experiences remains an evolving narrative.
